Beautiful, black women have battled their way to appear at the front of a camera lens but how do they fare standing behind it? Piper Carter, whom many of you will know from VH1’s hit show “The Shot,” is here to tell us exactly how she made a career for herself as a fashion photographer. Graduating from FIT in May '07 with my BFA in Photography and Digital Media, Piper went on to complete an internship at Vogue working in their photo department. She assisted the photo research team with editorial content for the magazine and the Poiret exhibition which was featured this past summer at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in the Costume Institute. With magazine features in French Vogue, British Elle, the New York Times, Trace and Essence magazines, and having shot stars like Erykah Badu and Noemie Lenoir, who else is better equipped to give us the lowdown on how to give Annie Leibovitz a run for her money!
1. What initially drew you to photography? I read it wasn't your original major at Howard.
My first Major at Howard University was Political Science: my mother wanted me to be an Entertainment Lawyer. I changed the following year to Musical Theater (I wanted to be a Choreographer). And finally I changed to Photography after having a really eye-opening moment with my close friend Dale Davis. He helped me see that there are many options in this world. After emerging myself in the major I learned that I have a natural talent for making images. I studied the craft before the digital revolution so I must admit that what initially drew me to Photography was the ability to make magic in the darkroom! That has since been replaced with my love for Photoshop.
2. You also studied at FIT, graduating with a BFA in Photography & Digital Media. Congrats! Do you feel it's necessary to study at a renowned fashion school to work in the fashion industry?
Actually, one doesn’t need to go to school at all to pursue a career in photography. You just need a great eye and good taste! Well, actually sometimes that isn’t even required. This path is based on the subjective view. So you’re kind of at the mercy of the taste of the client. I went to school because I love learning and I just wanted to gain as much knowledge as I could about art history and digital technology with concentrated effort, plus I just wanted to have my Degree.
3. Describe one of your favorite images to date. What were the circumstances surrounding it?
One of my favorite images is of a denim mermaid. It’s the model Hollis topless wearing a couture denim skirt with huge ruffles by a wonderful designer named Leon. She’s covering herself and her head is thrown back. She’s in silhouetted profile. That image makes me feel glad to be a woman! Originally there was a blouse she was supposed to wear but couldn’t get it on over her hair (she had a huge red wig). So she sat on the ground and the stylist was trying to help her get it on. She threw her head back and I saw it. So I just told the stylist to forget about the blouse & get out of the frame and I asked Hollis to cover her breasts and throw her head back completely facing up to the sky and close her eyes…magical!
4. Would you say being a black woman has helped or hindered your career thus far?
Well, I would have to say hindered. Many times people see my website and don’t know if I’m a guy or girl nor what race I am because my name is not typical and sort of interesting. But then when I go into their office for a meeting they seem shocked! Many times editors will tell me to keep trying, keep shooting and come back. Sometimes they’ll say “well we don’t want hip hop this is a fashion story”. And I wonder why they are telling me this because I don’t have any hip hop images on my site nor in my portfolio. And when I try to get work from so-called Black publications I just get a smile. Many times they’ll tell me how much they love me and my work, but really never hire me and I see lots of mediocre images published and think, “Wow! How come this person is getting work from this publication and they tell me I have to go back to the drawing board?” I have gotten a lot of really cool assignments from major fashion institutions anyhow though because I just exercise my winning personality and lots of persistence.
5. Jobs in the creative industries can be tough to come by in the beginning. How do you deal with working sporadically? What keeps you inspired even through the tough times?
Well one never really can stop grinding in this field. I keep reaching out to companies & publications in the States and overseas. I spend a good 3 hours daily just sending out requests for work. I stay inspired because I love what I do and I do make progress no matter how long it takes me nor how many tries.
6. You've worked for major fashion magazines such as French Vogue, British Elle, the New York Times and Trace magazine. Which was the first and how did you handle such a monumental opportunity?
Well British Elle was the first major fashion publication I shot for. I was very nervous but I knew that it was the moment I had been dreaming of. So I had to man up and focus! I just kept it very simple. Clean lighting and just worked to get the best out of the model.
7. You must have learned a few things working as an assistant for so many great photographers. What valuable lessons have you picked up along the way?
The most valuable lesson I’ve learned to date is to always stay true to my vision. It can be intimidating to work with Fashion People because they are very aggressive and have a strong personal style. But in the end they hired me for what I bring to the table.
8. You had a hard time on VH1's show "The Shot." Do you think you were fairly portrayed?
I don’t agree with the editing of the show, but one never knows how one is perceived in the eyes of others. For example: on the first challenge on the boat the day before we were given the clothing, and we knew our story had to reflect Stormy Romance. But we didn’t know our location and we didn’t know if we would have one guy and one girl or two guys and a girl. I wanted to hash out story ideas with a plan A & B for each photographer but my teammates didn’t want to work, they wanted to drink & chill so they said I was “annoying” because I wanted to be on point. They said they wanted to deal with it in the morning. But in the morning they all woke up late & didn’t want to discuss anything. They were all like “well I know what I’m going to do”. So, when I was like “listen we need to figure this out as a team what are we the collective going to do they said I was a Tyrant…lol
9. What's next for Piper Carter?
I’m working on a project for Ford Model Agency’s Youtube station, I’ll be shooting the Shows for Fashion Week, & I have an exhibition coming up in March and also in March I’m shooting a Beauty book with a very talented Make up Artist.
10. What is the one single piece of advice you'd give to a young female fashion photographer on the come up?
Work harder than the boys! Don’t be afraid of exercising your femininity when necessary though! Lol be honest about what you do & don’t know, no one knows it all, but find out what you don’t know about. & just shoot as often as possible. & don’t let anyone dictate your future!
Visit http://www.pipercarter.com/ to see more of Piper's work!